‘Every Cook Ought to Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns 4th on List of London’s Best Restaurants.
Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. However, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.
An Unexpected Honour
This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors totally astonished.
“I am utterly surprised,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Simplicity
This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.
A Star Creation: Tantuni
However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.
It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.
The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.
Beyond the Classic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.
Outranking the Stars
Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.
The Creed of Hospitality
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Path of Hard Work
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
A Achievement for the People
The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.